Summer is here!

Get Your Boat Ready for Summer: Commissioning Checklist

Hull, Topsides, and Deck

__ Uncover your ride. If you use a high-quality tarp (not one of those lousy blue things) dry and fold it carefully for next season. If your boat is shrink-wrapped, take or send the old wrap to recycling. Do not throw it in a dumpster. It will come back to haunt you as a ghostly plastic nightmare.

__ Wax your topsides with good marine paste-wax. It shines better, protects better, and lasts longer than “easier” products. No pain, no gain.

__ If you use an electric buffer, inspect the pad carefully for any debris that you might grind into the gelcoat. And keep that buffer moving – don’t hold it in one spot to hit a problem area, or you’ll have a Problem Area.

__ Don’t wax non-skid deck areas! Wash them and you’re done.

__ Use acid-based rust and stain removers sparingly, be careful how you rinse them, and avoid using them over an aluminum trailer.

__ Apply your antifouling paint. Don’t paint your running gear with copper-based paint without a barrier coat, and don’t paint your transducers at all.

__ Replace hull zincs.

__ Stick that drain plug in before launch! Many a boat has headed directly to a Davy Jones rendezvous after this little detail was skipped.


__ For outboard engines, review full commissioning notes.

__Open outboard cowlings and look for problems of rot or condensation over the winter.

__ Check all hoseclamps and fittings. Tighten as necessary. Check hoses for cracking and chafe.

__ Check your wiring. Electrical connections suffer in the winter from temperature changes and humidity. Clean your terminals, change them if necessary, and spray with a corrosion inhibitor.

__ Check throttle and shift cables, lubricate with marine-grade Teflon or grease.

Both inboard- and outboard-powered boats require sacrificial anodes. Make sure to replace your zincs at the start of the season.

__ Check your seacocks for free movement and lubricate as needed. Open those that need to be open for launch (raw-water intake!) and close those any that need to be closed.

__ Make sure your strainers are clean and clear.

__ Check steering cables or hydraulics for proper tightness, wear, leaks, smooth movement of engine or rudder.

__ Double-check fluid levels — lube oil, transmission oil, lower unit oil, coolant, etc. (You changed these in the fall or left them in good shape.)

__ Check heat exchangers for deposits and obstructions; clean as needed.

__ Check cooling water impellers, replace if necessary.

__ Check belts for wear and proper tension.

__ If your engine needs new spark plugs, wait to change them until after you’ve burned off last fall’s engine fogger residue.

__ Check engine zincs, replace if necessary.

__ On stern-drive boats, carefully inspect outdrive bellows for cracks and deterioration from winter weather.


__ Spray all connections with contact cleaner; test brake and signal lights.

__ Test your brakes, if your trailer is equipped with them.

__ Grease wheel bearings (if you didn’t grease them in the fall), lubricate hitch mechanism, overhaul winch cable or strap and check for wear/weakness.

__ Carefully check your tires (you blocked the trailer up in the fall to prevent settling, right?), including treads and sidewalls, and inflate to proper pressure. Do the same for your spare.

Make sure your flares are up-to-date. You can keep your expired flares for back-up, but stow them away from the fresh ones to prevent confusion in an emergency.


__ Make sure flares, fire-extinguishers, and other required equipment is up-to-date.

__ Check PFDs and restow in an easy-to-access place.

__ Test bilge blowers and bilge pumps.

__ Overhaul your anchoring gear and restow it so that you can deploy the anchor quickly.


__ Registration renewed and sticker on?

__ Boating license on board or in your wallet?

__ Sunscreen, bug repellent, toilet paper — all personal conveniences topped up and handy?

Check. Check. Check! See you on the water.